My Visit to the Galapagos Islands
Ralph Spence - August 2001
What began as a summer vacation to the Galapagos Islands, ended up being a rich experience that included unspoiled natural beauty, intimate encounters with wildlife and modern day struggles for survival in a setting that highlights the theological significance of natural history. We went there to see the animals; however, we ended up seeing a whole lot more.
First we saw Quito, the capital city of Ecuador which is home to 2 million people with an unemployment rate of about 30%. There were demonstrations while we were there protesting a government that is seen as corrupt by some, while others see current reforms as abandoning their cultural history. There is still unrest over a conversion of the currency to the US dollar which was enacted close to three years ago in an effort to slow runaway inflation. While the leadership that provided the change of currency was ousted, the US dollar remains and inflation is reportedly down to the 10% per year level. To honor their history, Ecuador now produces coins similar in size to US coins that have pictures related to Ecuadorian leaders and history.
From Quito we flew to Guayaquil and then to the Galapagos Islands. The Galapagos Islands are volcanic in origin, similar to Hawaii, and were never connected to the mainland of South America. While many birds and plants reached the islands by air, the river that meets the coast at Guayaquil is the source for floating islands of land and vegetation that are believed to have brought many of the endemic species. Reptiles such as tortoises and iguanas were among the only species that were able to survive the three to six week journey that is require to reach the islands by this method. The only endemic mammals were rice rats and bats and amphibians were not able to survive the journey without fresh water. This unusual setting is what makes the wildlife so unique.
While visiting each island, we strolled peacefully through the nesting grounds of the waved albatross, blue and red footed boobies, iguanas, frigates and countless other animals and birds. We saw giant tortoises in breeding programs for reintroduction into the wild and we swam with penguins, sea turtles and sea lions. We also saw a number of finches that are all believed to have descended from the warbler, yet now have a variety of different appearances as well as behaviors adapted for survival. This is where we saw how natural forces have guided the evolution of species based on the natural selection of those characteristics and behaviors that were best suited for survival. The absence of predators allowed the finch to occupy various niches in the competition for food and the harsh conditions allowed only the best adaptations to survive. One example we saw was the Woodpecker Finch that, in the absence of endemic woodpeckers, developed the skill of using its beak, as well as sticks, to look under bark for insects. It is one of the few species that join humans in the use of tools. In the processes of natural selection, ancestors of the woodpecker finch that had the longest beaks and learned the use of tools were the survivors who's traits dominated the gene pool of the species.
While much is made of the conflict between creation theology and evolution, it seems that the processes that lead to evolution are a natural part of creation. If God is alive today, then surely God has the ability to make adjustments in creation through natural selection or other processes. There may be a harsh reality in the plight of those individuals of a species that are selected against; however, that is nature's way and God challenges each of us to make the most of the gifts and opportunities that are available to us. Admonitions and guidelines found in scripture are provided to encourage behavior that will ensure survival and there are many biblical examples of adaptation, behavioral advantages and exploitation of opportunity. Each species in the Galapagos Islands has sought out a niche that allows them to live in harmony with their neighbors, however, changes in the population, or the environment, often lead to hardship and conflict. This competition for survival tends to strengthen the population just as the challenges we face in life can strengthen us.
While efforts are underway to preserve and restore the Galapagos Islands to their natural condition, there is much to be done. Since tortoise can survive for up to a year without food or water, the natural population was decimated by whaling vessels that took hundreds as a source of meat while at sea. Not only did whaling ships destroy much of the tortoise population, but mammals introduced during the whaling days have caused the extinction of some endemic species and threaten the survival of others. In order to provide a future source of food, ships would seed islands with goats and early inhabitants often brought pigs and other livestock. These introduced animals have been eradicated from some islands; however, there are others the populations are still increasing. Because goats eat the vegetation that would provide cover and hide the pigs, efforts have shown that pigs must be removed before goats. If every animal is not removed, those that survive tend to pass on behavior and characteristics to their offspring that make them even harder to find.
While over 90% of the land in the Galapagos Islands is a natural preserve, the increase in tourist trade and the supporting population threatens the efforts to maintain and restore the area's unique characteristics. There is conflict between the Ecuadorian government and the Galapagos Park officials over issues related to fishing in the marine reserve surrounding the islands. The cool waters flowing up the coast from the south provide a rich feeding ground and commercial fishing fleets threaten populations that support the Galapagos ecosystem. While Park officials oversee the restricted areas, they must rely on the Ecuadorian Navy to enforce the regulations that protect the islands. With the economic hardship and unrest in Ecuador, there is reportedly growing pressure to transfer stewardship of the marine reserve from park officials and turn it over to the Ecuadorian Navy and representatives of the fishing fleet.
The Galapagos Islands offer a unique opportunity to see evolution in progress. Even today, there is research underway that indicates the processes of natural selection can cause the evolution of species at rates much faster than previously thought. Many of the locals believe that public awareness of the issues that threaten the Galapagos Islands can be the most effective tool in the effort to insure that the Ecuadorian government continues to protect this unique area. This report is written in appreciation of the steps so many have already taken in the fight to preserve this natural laboratory and to join in the effort to share this story. For more information, check the web pages for at: <http://www.galapagos.com/environ.htm#welcome>
